What we had in mind was a nice, leisurely afternoon hike to the Green Sand Beach on the south point of the Big Island. No hills, a little wind, neat destination, pretty views. Easy.
Before I go into how we met Johann, I’d better give some background about Adrienne and Rob. Adrienne is my best friend from childhood. We were similarly socially awkward, as all hip people must claim to have been in high school, of course, except Adrienne has no aspirations whatever of being hip and I only suffer forays into hipness at my most deluded moments. The truth is, we’re both just nerds, then, now, and forever. There’s no danger of us becoming The Flight of the Conchords, so weird we’re actually cool. Nope. Even though we did make up some pretty sweet songs, back in high school. For example, when our social studies teacher in eighth grade showed us the made for tv movie Escape from Sobibor, which was her requisite holocaust movie, this was the song we made up in response (to the tune of “Lightly Row”):
Sobibor
Sobibor
You will die for sure, sure, sure
Sobibor
Sobibor
it is not much fun.
Sobi, sobi, sobibor
you will, you will, die for sure
Sobibor
Sobibor
Death camp of Poland.
For some reason, nobody thought that was as funny as we did.
After college and life separated us for several years, we were reunited at Adrienne’s wedding, for which I was a bridesmaid. I saw her again a year later, when I had a long layover in NYC and she and Rob met me to have dinner and watch Wicked on Broadway. It turned out that she is still pretty much exactly the same as she was in high school, and obviously I haven’t changed at all, either, so she and Rob decided to come visit me here in the Aloha State over Christmas.
I booked us a three day trip on the Big Island, which I’ve been to seven or eight times. Ordinarily, the Big Island is not a tourist trip for me. I always stay at the same B&B in Volcano Village, read two books, drink wine and play Trivial Pursuit with Kim and John, eat a lot of Thai food, and take at least five naps. But that plan wasn’t going to cut it with Adrienne and Rob, because this was a once in a lifetime trip for them, so I planned an itinerary that crammed every activity I’ve ever done (and quite a few that I always meant to do, but then the hot tub and a glass of reisling seemed like more fun and way less effort) on the Big Island into three days.
Enter the Green Sand Beach. This is a geological anamoly that, as far as I know, can only be found on the Big Island. According to the guide book, 600 million years ago (I make up geological facts about Hawaii to tell tourists and students all the time, and my benchmark era for all the volcanic stuff to go down is 600 million years ago, which I always say in the voice of the movie preview guy–600 MILLION years ago, in a world far, far, under the sea, a plume of magma burst from the sea floor, starting the beautiful island chain we now know as. . .Hawai’i) a freak, olivine vein of lava poured into the sea. Over time, it has been eroded by the wind, sand, and ocean into a unique and amazing Green Sand Beach made of pure olivine sand.
Most of that, like all of my Hawai’i “facts”, is from my own friendly and insane imagination (my motto: “making stuff up is easier than looking stuff up!”), but I’m pretty sure at least one or two parts are true.
After hearing about The Green Sand Beach of Pure Olivine, Adrienne and Rob were dead set on seeing it, which meant that we were going to have to drive our two-bit rental car down to South Point and then hike two miles out.
Now, no franchise rental car company on the Big Island will rent you a car that you are allowed to take down to South Point. You have to sign a special contract specifically agreeing NOT to drive down the South Point road. This will become important information later. South Point road is paved and everything, but narrow and bumpy and above all, extremely desolate and just. . .weird. Weird like the heath where the witches hang out in Macbeth. Hardly anyone is there, the wind never lets up, it’s all crumbly black lava fields and tall, whispering grasses and a giant, defunct wind farm. It wouldn’t take a great deal of imagination to think that South Point was haunted. The Green Sand Beach of Pure Olivine beckoned, however.
It was late afternoon and the sun was already beginning to set. We hadn’t eaten lunch and had just finished snorkeling at Pu’u O Honua O Honaunau. Adrienne and Rob were not to be put off, however. There is no trail to The Green Sand Beach, just an amalgam of criss-crossing 4×4 tracks cut deep into the red mud with no rhyme or reason. You follow the jagged coastline and hope to stumble upon The Green Sand Beach. We imagined it must look kind of like The Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz.
Flashback: in high school, Adrienne nicknamed me “Slow Girl” (not very creative, I know, but you can’t expect too much from her–later on she became an engineer) because in her opinion, I took way too long to gather my stuff and get to the next class when the bell would ring. Adrienne ran cross country and has very long legs. She walks kind of like a cross country skier without skis, striding the shortest distance between any two points, and I’d scurry down the hall, dropping compasses and graphing calculators and world history textbooks, trying to keep up.
I had totally forgotten about The Adrienne Stride until hiking to The Green Sand Beach that afternoon. We figured we only had about an hour and a half before the sun went down,the hike was going to be about four miles round trip, and nobody wanted to get caught out on the Hawaiian Heath in the dark. Adrienne was off like a shot, on a crazed mission to The Emerald City, and I was tracking her exactly the way I used to through the halls of Queensbury High School.
After an hour of this intense run/walking, we encountered a large bluff that was next to the sea. Adrienne stopped and turned towards me with shoulder shrug. She was too far in front of me to be audible, but her pointing indicated: Emerald City? Could it be?
Oh yes. The Green Sand Beach was yonder. Thrilled that we actually found it, we galloped down the steep wall, only to find out that The Green Sand Beach should really be called The Kind of an Ugly Goldish Beach. Remember when you had your big box of 64 Crayolas, and all of them would get worn down to nubbins except for Burnt Sienna and Inch Worm and maybe Electric Lime? This beach was a combination of those three colors, and believe me, nobody would ever use this color for anything in the coloring book. Unless, of course, you had a Big Island coloring book. Then, for once, those three crayons would get their day in the sun. But honestly, if I were coloring that coloring book, I’d just pick out good ol’ reliable “Screamin’ Green” and pretend I’d seen the beach of The Emerald City. Because the reality is kind of a let down, and I say believe in Santa as long as you can.
Rob took 50 or 60 pictures, and we decided to turn back, because nobody wanted to try to make it back to the car in the dark in that creepy, desolate place. The urgency was lost, though, because we had accomplished our goal, so Adrienne and I could actually have a conversation on the return trip.
Most of the snorkelers at Honaunau, where we had been before The Green Sand Beach of Disappointment, had been speaking German, which led Adrienne to deliver a rousing commentary on the ins and outs of German tourists (Adrienne lived in Germany for three months in graduate school). The whole discussion occupied us for most of the way back to the car, but the basic points conveyed were:
- Ain’t no tourists as hardcare as German tourists
- German tourists are EVERYWHERE, and they never plan stuff, they just fly by the seat of their pants and go with the flow
- German tourists consider the weird stuff that happens due to lack of planning just part of the adventure that goes along with traveling
- Always ask German tourists to take your picture if you are traveling, because they are awesome at taking pictures and have the best cameras, so they will not ask tiresome questions about how to use yours
- German tourists are generally extremely -atured, and laugh at everything, even things that Americans would find hugely irritating and inconvenient
Now, that may seem irrelevant, but it becomes important later.
You know how when you finish a hike and get back to the car, there’s this wonderful feeling, like, yep, that nature stuff is fun and we sure had a great time, but good thing the car is there, thus rendering optional walking and consequently being exposed to the elements? And then you hop in your car and maybe you had a snack waiting there, you take off your muddy shoes and turn on the heat, and the whole having-to-deal-with-the-outdoors becomes but a distant memory as you roll on towards your next delicious meal prepared by someone else with minimal inconvenience to yourself.
It’s a nice feeling, right?
Except Rob couldn’t find the key.
It’s funny how the implications of something like that come to you in stages; how you start problem solving like a madman, how you travel down the road of the immediate future in your mind. . .I guess this means we won’t get back to Volcano Village in time for the Thai restaurant; wait, how will we even get back to Volcano Village? Is this where we now live? Oh no, this means the lease on the car is null and void, because we weren’t even supposed to be here anyway; are we going to die of hypothermia tonight? I’m hungry; I wonder if the mongeese have rabies?
There had been a moribund-looking family following us, and they returned to their rental Mustang just as we were discovering this mess. Rob walked up to them and explained the situation and asked if we could use their cell phone. They reluctantly conceded, and looked terribly impatient as I called every option for help I could think of, all of which were going to entail huge inconvenience and expense, as well as a long wait. Everyone we called kept putting us on hold or hanging up on us, or the phone would disconnect. Thai food was slipping outside the realm of possibility. Something had to be done.
While I was making desperate and totally unfruitful phone calls, Rob and Adrienne were trying to keep the Mustang Family placated at having to extend a helping hand to fellow human beings (I’m a little bitter about that Mustang Family; considering the straits we were in, they could have shown a little more patience, I think). The father kept telling Rob he should just break the window, and Rob kept explaining that he would have done that, except he couldn’t see the car key inside the car, which would make the solution an expensive boondoggle that would still leave us stranded, albeit with water and phones and a better windbreak.
It was when the father actually went and found a large, pointy rock for Rob that I knew we had to just let the family go on their way. So I turned the phone off, and Adrienne handed it and a $20 to them for helping us out (I placed a LOT of 411 calls on that phone). And suddenly we found ourselves looking up at a tall, gangly, balding man with a pleasant, benign expression. The Mustang father beamed: I found this guy! He’ll help you!
Oh. . .thanks, we murmured, to the dust of the Mustang’s rapidly departing tires.
We turned towards the tall man. “Do you mind if we use your phone?” Rob asked.
“Ok, sure, but I am not knowing if it works here, actually,” said the man in accented English. This man was around my age, maybe a couple of years older, and suddenly it was incumbent on me to turn on full throttle every charm spigot I own. Admittedly, I’m not great at flirting, but when Thai food hinges in the balance, you’d be amazed at how adorable I can be.
“Oh, THANK you,” I said, looking up at him with adoring, melty eyes. “You just can’t IMAGINE what a tight SPOT we’re in right now! It’s just CRAZY! We will pay you ANYTHING if you could just let us borrow your phone, those jerks at Enterprise keep cutting me off, thank you thank you thank you. . .What’s your name?”
“I am. . .Joe.” He smiled, pushed some buttons on his phone, and handed it to me. I looked at the screen.
German.
Adrienne’s eyes went wide.
“You know, I am thinking I was going to stay here overnight in my car, yes?” said the German guy. He had a lovely SUV with lots of room. “But you are staying in Volcano?”
“Yes, yes, Volcano,” we all chorused.
“Well, I was going to stay here overnight and hike to The Green Sand Beach in the morning–”
Adrienne nudged me. German! she hissed under her breath. Staying overnight in one’s car on purpose is NOT Adrienne’s idea of normal tourist behavior. Except, of course, for Germans.
“–but if you like I can drive you to Volcano, is okay!”
“Ooooooh, that would be SO NICE of you; OF COURSE you could stay overnight with us at our hotel, it would be NO PROBLEM AT ALL,” I gushed. Gushing was necessary; Volcano is about a two hour drive from South Point.
Finally! A plan that would get me to Volcano in time for Thai food! Yes!
We went over to the car to deliberate. Being from Long Island, Adrienne and Rob have very little trust for humanity in general, and though it was looking like Joe the German Guy was our only hope, Rob pointed out that someone was bound to break into our rental car if we left it there, and all of our stuff was inside, so we might as well break into it ourselves and bring our stuff with us in Joe’s car. This didn’t really seem logical to me, since South Point doesn’t exactly seem like a hotbed of criminal activity, what with it being miles and miles away from civilization, but a change of clothes sounded pretty good by then, so I didn’t say anything.
So Rob picked up the rock that had been proffered earlier by the Mustang Dad, and started to break one of the windows. Which turned out to be a lot more difficult than you might think. He had to really whale the crap out of that window. Adrienne and I couldn’t even watch.
Finally the deed was done, and we dove into the car, me heading straight for the Portuguese sweet rolls I bought earlier that day as a treat for my church friends. Too bad for them. I was starving.
“Um, guys?” said Rob.
I looked up, cheeks full of delicious bread.
“I found the key.”
Awesome! Whooooo! Except. . .what do we do with Joe the German Guy?
“We have to take him back to our hotel,” I said. “We have to. He was nice to us and those other people sucked. What, now we’re going to be like, oh, we don’t need you anymore, have a nice time sleeping in your car tonight?”
Adrienne and Rob agreed, although I could tell Adrienne was freaking out a little as it dawned on her that we were going to have to have a stranger sleeping in our hotel room for the night.
We informed Joe of the change in plans and invited him to come back with us anyway.
“Well. . .I am thinking. . .why not?” said Joe.
Adrienne looked at me. German!
On the long drive to Volcano, Adrienne became more and more agitated. What if the guy kills us? What if he rapes you? What if he steals all our stuff? Ohnoohnoohnoohno.
I spent my junior year of college in France and I know a thing or two about Europeans. I’m not saying they are perfect or anything, but in general the culture seems a lot more laid-back about helping a brother out over there. In Europe, borrowing minor stuff like a quarter to make a phone call or to make the change come out right at the store, or bumming a cigarette off someone, just isn’t looked on as a big deal. Hostel culture is bigger in Europe, too; people are used to communal or makeshift living arrangements, at least in temporary circumstances. Crashing on people’s floors and couches seems a lot more normal over there. Or maybe that was just a byproduct of the fact that I was pretty young at the time.
Anyway, Joe the German didn’t really give me any weird vibes. He just struck me as quintessentially. . .European. We spoke of German tourists on our way back from The Green Sand Beach, and lo, a German tourist appeared.
So that is what happened. Joe followed us back to our hotel, we bought him Thai food, took showers one at a time while the others ate, and went to bed. I felt kind of bad, because Europeans probably would have produced a bottle of wine or vodka or something, and stayed up all night making Joe (we knew that couldn’t really be his name and asked him about it, and he sheepishly admitted that his name was Johann, but he couldn’t stand how Americans pronounced it so he always just calls himself Joe when he is in the states) our new best friend, but what can I say. I can only flirt in emergency situations. Otherwise, my social skills pretty much just sublimate. I was so tired I fell asleep almost before I even put my head down on the futon. Johann slept on a mattress on the floor.
He left the next morning after we made him eggs and insisted that he not pay for any aspect of the last evening, and I regretted not getting his contact information just in case I ever need a floor to sleep on in Bavaria.
So Johann, if you’re out there, thanks again for being nice enough to offer us a ride, and sorry we weren’t more fun. It was a weird night. And you should tell that exgirlfriend of yours to just move to Bavaria even if she can’t find a job, because true love always finds a way.
Read strong!